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Underwhelmed in Amsterdam

March 28, 2012

Two years ago I spent a weekend in Amsterdam, and while I enjoyed myself, I didn’t think it compared to many other cities I visited. I decided to give the city another chance on this vacation and spent 3 days there. I wish I had spent them in another city. While I do agree that Amsterdam is a beautiful city, I don’t think it’s the best place to spend your money when on a backpacker’s budget.

Vita Nova hostel, however, is one of the exceptions to this. I stayed in a private room with two other girls, and it averaged under 15 euros each per night. The boat is easily walkable from the red light district and has one of the most amazing breakfasts I’ve ever had at a hostel with different kinds of bread, cheese, meat, vegetables, yogurt and my personal favorite: bottomless coffee.

Unlike the owner of our hostel who was friendly and knowledgeable, the staff at the Centraal tourist office were rude and condescending. Maps aren’t free, so be sure to pick one up at your hotel or hostel. When I asked him about a museum discount card I had read about, he was dismissive and told me no such thing has ever existed. (False, it just doesn’t exist anymore)

Instead we walked to the Anne Frank house, passing the homomonument on the way (you can see part of it in the top left of the picture above). The entry fee was 9 euros and don’t bother asking for a student discount. Although the house was interesting and informative, I don’t think it was worth almost ten euros, especially when you’re trying to cap your spending at 30 euros a day. Afterwards we had dinner at Ristorante Pizzeria Firenze, which was entirely underwhelming but very cheap, especially for the area it’s in.

Two of the highlights of the trip for me were the restaurant we had dinner at on the 15th and the bar/café we went to after (and Erin and I spent the afternoon in on the 16th while waiting for our bus). We had dinner at Bird, a Thai restaurant that is supposed to be the most authentic in the city.

We started with some amazing spring rolls, and I had tofu with basil and peppers for 12,50. The food was amazing and came in huge portions. If you want to have approximately the same meal, but cheaper, check out Bird’s snackbar located across the street. For our beers after the dinner, we went to a cafe called ‘Skek, mostly because of its free wifi but it won us over with its charm. A pint of Grolsch costs under 4,50; nachos are the same; sodas and teas come in around 2 euros.

Our last day in Amsterdam was rainy and cold, but we decided to take advantage of our free bike rentals from Vita Nova and trek out to Museumplein and take the obligatory iAmsterdam pictures. Our bike rentals came from a company called Starbikes (copyright infringement?), which is located right behind Centraal station. One day’s bike rental costs 7 euros, or you can rent the bike for 24 hours for 9 euros. The staff was very friendly and they have options for tandem bikes and pre-packed picnic baskets.

Although Amsterdam is a charming city, its cost can be a prohibiting factor for many backpackers. If you decide you want to visit the city regardless, take advantage of its beauty and the joys of riding a bike by the many canals.

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Never Sightsee on a Monday

March 20, 2012

We arrived in Antwerp and walked to our host’s apartment which was only about ten minutes from the train station. Here we were staying with Ellen and her two roommates, who also took us out for a round of drinks after we arrived. We went to a small bar around the corner from her house and sampled more Belgian beers (when in Belgium!). I tried a Westmalle Trappist and a De Konnick, both of where were delicious. Briana and I split the second round of drinks, so although I don’t have an exact price, I paid 8,50 for 4 beers which isn’t bad. We had fun chatting with our hosts and horrified them with tales of how the French add fruit-flavored syrup to their beers.

Unfortunately we made an error in only giving ourselves the day on Monday to do our touristing – everything worth seeing is closed on Mondays! (Warning to the wise: this is a pretty common problem throughout Europe) So instead we took it easy and spent the first part of the morning wandering up the main drag, Meir St, which has every chain store imaginable including a Forever 21.

We arrived in the historical center and took tons of pictures. The Hilton pictured here was formerly the Grand Bazaar and in the background you can see the KBC tower. It was one of the first skyscrapers in Europe and was the tallest until 1952. The art deco style bares a similar style to one our own famous skyscrapers – the Empire State building.

To add insult to injury, not only was everything closed but we had to dodge rain clouds all day long. As you can see from the picture above, it was a pretty dreary day in Belgium. My picture of the City Hall (the building with the flags) in the Grote Markt (market square) isn’t nearly as pretty as the postcards I sent my family, but the Brabo foutain still maintains its playful flair under the clouds.

We also walked down to the waterfront and managed to take a few pictures of Het Steen, or Stone Castle, before a torrential downpour opened up on us. Stone Castle was built in 1520 and is the oldest building in Antwerp. Previously located in the city center, the castle is now on the edge of the historical center and the Scheldt (the river that runs through Antwerp).

For lunch, we decided to try a friterie, or a sort of fast food restaurant that specializes in french fries. We chose to go to Fritkot Max, one of the few friteries that still serves its fries in the traditional paper cones as opposed to plastic baskets or paper boats as most modern friteries do. The restaurant is located at Groenplaats 12 and is impossible to miss because you’ll see this out front:

For a veggie burger, sauce, and a huge thing of fries I paid 6,30. The burger left something to be desired, but I thought the fries were delicious.

After lunch the sky cleared up enough for us to use the Antwerp bike rental system to check out the Justitiepaleis, or Palace of Justice at Bolivarplaats in the southern part of the city. It was designed by the architect of one of my favorite buildings in Paris. Can you guess which one?

Some people think the shark-fin like structure is ridiculous looking, but it was one of the city’s first environmentally friendly buildings. The architect chosen to construct the building was Richard Rogers, who designed the famous Pompidou Center in Paris.

After we finished up at the Palace of Justice we were running out of time, so we headed back to Ellen’s apartment to pick up our bags. Sadly there was no need for me to rush because I waited on the steps where Eurolines picks up its passengers for half an hour. In the rain. But for a seven euro ticket to Amsterdam, I can’t complain too much!

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The Hidden Gem of Ghent

March 13, 2012

When I told people I was going to Ghent, the most common response I got was “Where?”

Ghent is the largest city in the Flemmish region of Belgium, and up until the 13th century was the largest city in Europe after Paris. Today the city has a population of around 600,000, including a large number of university students and recent graduates which gives the city a very fun and youthful feel. Despite this fact however, there are very few budget hostel options available in the city which is what led my follow travel companion and I to try couchsurfing for the first time ever. I’m happy to report that our host, Fien, was absolutely fantastic and helped show us all of Ghent’s charm.

We arrived on the later side Saturday night and took it easy, first at the apartment of one of Fien’s friends with a few glasses of wine, and then a trip to one of the local bars to sample some Belgian beer. Fien took us the Damberd Café (Korenmarkt 19) and treated us to a round of drinks. I tried the Tongulo Bruin, a darker beer, and Briana tried the Orval, a popular Belgian beer. The two drinks cost 3,70 and 3,60 euros respectively.

The following day, Fien surprised us with a breakfast of pain au chocolat, croissants, eggs, “farmer’s bread” and some homemade apple juice from a farm in West Flanders. It was the perfect way to start off what turned out to be an absolutely freezing day walking around Ghent.

We followed the walking tour in the free guide we picked up from the tourist office, located just behind the belfry in the main square. (Fun side note: the belfry played Au Champs Elysées while we were standing in the square, which absolutely made my day) The tour takes about two and a half hours depending how long you spend at each spot, and hits all the main tourist sites including St. Bavo’s Cathedral, home of the Ghent altarpiece and the reason I put this city on my list.

After we finished the walking tour, we decided to stop for lunch at a restaurant called Du Progrès, located just across the street from the bar we went to the night before and I got to sample some of Ghent’s vegetarian cuisine. Look at that delicious veggie burger smothered with a creamy mushroom sauce! That and a half pint of Hoegaarden cost me 14 euros, which isn’t the cheapest meal I had on this trip but was worth it since I haven’t had a veggie burger since September :)

As everyone knows, chocolate is a must have when you come to Belgium and Ghent has no shortage of stores to indulge your sweet tooth. After window shopping for a while, we ended up making our purchases at the Chocolaterie de Graslei, located about half a block away from where the two rivers in Ghent intersect (Graslei 2). The owner was the sweetest man who believes he has the best job in the world… and can you blame him? He explained all of the different flavors to us, the unusual way he makes truffels, and why he recommended one flavor over another. I ended up buying a 250g bag of hazelnut chocolate shells for 4 euro 80, which lasted me through most of the trip. They were absolutely incredible.

However merely purchasing chocolate wasn’t enough for us. We wanted to drink some too! Fien pointed us to a coffee shop owned by one of her friends called Huize Colette (Belfortstraat 6), which was packed to the brim when we arrived. I ordered a Witte Chocolatedemelk met Praline, or a white hot choclate with praline. It tasted like drinking a liquidated praline chocolate and only cost 3,50. The first half was delicious, but the second half started getting a little sugary to enjoy. I’d recommend splitting the drink with someone if you decide to get one.

Snow began to fall as we took the tram to the train station to head to Antwerp (9 euros), a perfect ending to a beautiful day in one of the most charming mid-sized cities I’ve ever visited.

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Verdict on the Budget

March 5, 2012

I’m back from my trip and I did pretty well with keeping to my budget. Ironically, I spent the most money in the cheapest countries I visited! I don’t have exact figures for the last two days because of a credit card malfunction, but suffice it to say I went over buying souvenirs for my family (and scarves for me). But here’s a day by day breakdown through Bratislava:

February 11: Paris and Ghent = 9,90

February 12: Ghent and Antwerp = 33,90 (41,80)

February 13: Antwerp and Amsterdam = 27,60 (69,40)

February 14: Amsterdam = 46,25 (115,65)

February 15: Amsterdam = 21,40 (137,05)

February 16: Amsterdam = 20,95 (158,00)

February 17: Berlin = 34,20 (192,20)

February 18: Berlin = 17,90 (210,10)

February 19: Bus ride to Budapest = 11,80 (221,90)

February 20: Budapest = 29,54 (251,44)

February 21: Budapest = 43,00 (294,44)

February 22: Budapest = 60,37 (354,81) 20 euros of this was because I forgot to pack my swimsuit for the baths

February 23: Bratislava = 30,56 (383,37)

February 24: Bratislava and Prague = 66,89 (452,26) This included buying dinner for some other people so I’d have cash to use for the next two days since my card wouldn’t let me withdrawl.

My goal up to the 24th was 420 euros, and if I hadn’t used my card at all for the next two days, I would have come under budget but I was seduced by the gorgeous and cheap scarves at the market in Prague. I’d estimate my total was about 500 euros for food and entertainment over the two weeks, which is pretty close to my orginal estimate. So although I didn’t stay under 800 euros, I had some amazing experiences and rarely felt that I had to pass on an interesting experience because of budgetary concerns. Stay tuned this week for more tales from my trip!

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Vacances time again?! Or can I make 800 euros last 16 days through 6 countries

February 9, 2012

So as I’ve previously mentioned, France has spoiled me with a ridiculous amout of vacation time. My next vacation is fast approaching (February 11 – 27 since I don’t work Mondays) and I have quite the itinerary ahead of me. I know a lot of you will look at this list and say I’m traveling too fast, but to be fair it is my second time in several of these cities. So I present you my itinerary with the basic costs (mostly for the benefit of my family so they know where to worry about me)!

Feb 11: 9h00 train to Paris = 37 euros

Evening bus to Ghent = 9 euros

Couchsurfing with BC = free

Feb 12: Day in Ghent

Afternoon train to Antwerp = To buy, approx 9 euros

Couchsurfing with BC = free

Feb 13: Bus to Amsterdam = 7 euros

Hostel, 3 person private room: 44.50 per person for 3 nights

Feb 16: Night bus to Berlin = 38 euros but no hostel cost

Feb 17: arrive in Berlin

Hostel, 8 person female dorm: 14 euros for 2 nights

Feb 19: bus to Budapest ALL DAY = 30 euros, but no entertainment costs

Hostel, 8 person female dorm: 16 euros for 4 nights(!)

Feb 23: bus to Bratislava = 10 euros

Hostel, 8 person dorm: 7 euros for 1 night

Feb 24: bus to Prague = 10 euros

Hostel, 8 person dorm: 20 euros for 2 nights

Feb 26: night bus back to Paris = 35.50 euros

Feb 27: arrive in Paris around 6

Starbucks coffee (necessity): 4 euros

8h55 train to Nantes = 30 euros

Total for 16 days of travel and lodging = 321 euros.

My goal is stick to about 15 euros a day for food and 15 euros a day for entertainment, which for 16 days is 240 euros per or about 500 euros for both. I’m going to do my best to keep a record of all my costs on this trip so you can judge for yourselves how well I did. However I don’t believe in sacrificing all the fun just to stay in budget :)

If you add together my entertainment, food, travel and lodging, I’m looking at a grand total of 801 euros (If I keep exactly to the 30 euro per day allotment I’ve given myself).

Let’s see how it goes!

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